Anticipation has been high for the opening of el Ocho, the latest venue from Spanish chef Willy Trullas Moreno, the man behind behind the former French Concession’s elEfante restaurant and el Coctel bar as well as his signature Bund-side venue el Willy. Initial signs are promising – it’s a huge bar, with high exposed-beam ceilings adding to the sense of space. Swish touches such as long purple sofas and traditional elements such as old leather seats offset nicely by Willy’s trademark comic paraphernalia dotted around behind the bar. Expect this place to get very busy, very quickly.
At the suggestion of mohawk-sporting head barman Aaron J Feder we tried the D.L.B. (88RMB). Created by barman Don Lee in New York, this drink comprises gold rum, Fernet Branca, fresh lemon, sugar and an intense amount of bitters. It’s a digestif that richly rewards those who can handle the bitter overload, perfect after you’ve filled up on tapas at Moreno’s Tomatito. ‘It is severely on the bitter side,’ laughs Feder. ‘It’s very dry, but then on the second sip you start to pull in all the details.
There are plenty of classics, as well as classics with twists. Feder is billing the venue as a haven for cocktail ‘nerdiness’, and with offerings such as the Oazacan Old Fashioned (78RMB), made with house smoked tequila, and The Appeasement of Ching Dai (98RMB), made with baijiu, rosemary honey, fresh lime and Shan Zha syrup, there are reams of drinks to discover. As you’d expect from Moreno, food options are enticing, although they are very much secondary to the drinks. Sandwiches go for a reasonable 48-65RMB, with tapas (35-50RMB) plus cheese and meat platters (98-225RMB) available.
